Oval Cut Diamonds

Oval Cut Diamond

Introduction to Oval Cut shape:

Oval cut diamond is my name.

The circle and I are not the same.

The circle is round, as round can be.

I am shaped like an egg as you can see.

A shiny one, for that matter.

 

When did I come to be?

1960, thanks to the legendary diamond cutter, Lazare Kaplan.

 

Lazare Kaplan was raised by a family of well-educated jewelers. His uncle, Abraham Tolkowsky, was a distinguished diamond cutter famous for the Ideal Cut. Lazare, by apprenticeship, was keen to learn his uncle’s skillset that he later improvised on and established himself as one of the greatest diamond cutters of his time.

view diamonds in hd

His star did not shine until his invention of the oval cut diamond. Now, notably, oval diamonds had been in existence hundreds of years before, but not with the precision that Lazare Kaplan brought to the table.

 

In fact, Kaplan is famous for taking “worthless,” “useless” diamonds as they were considered by other diamond cutters, and transforming them into the ever so desired high-quality diamonds of his time. He had mastered the art of diamond cutting to its finest, and so were his diamonds: more than fine.

 

His invention of the modern oval cut earned him a spot in the Jewelers International Hall of Fame making oval-cut diamonds one of the most sought-after and high-valued cut diamonds in the market.

 

So what contributed to the success of this cut shape diamond?

 

The oval cut diamond came into existence at a time when diamonds were the hallmark of brilliance when they denoted extreme value. However, the round cut diamond had been in existence long before and hence the oval cut served as a fresh breath of air to jewelry lovers.

 

Not only that, but the oval cut is appealing when worn. Its elongated shape allows it to look bigger, shinier, and more attractive. It is now a staple for high-end engagement rings, celebrity necklaces, as well as earrings. Such high demand and scarcity has made them highly-priced but of course worth it.

What makes oval cut diamonds unique

What makes oval-cut diamonds unique?

 

The cut

The shape and cut of the diamond are highly dependent on mathematical measurements set by the International Gem Society to determine the quality and attractiveness of the diamond. Several aspects of the cut must be considered in order to have the best oval cut diamond.

 

 

The table

The table is the uppermost part of the diamond that runs parallel to the girdle plane. It determines how tall or short the height of the diamond will be. It is measured as a percentage of the length of the table against the diameter of the girdle plane. The larger the percentage, the shorter the diamond will be.

 

A large table is good as it allows most of the light to be reflected making the diamond shine brightly. However, this also means that light will be reflected with less sparkle, unlike a smaller table where the light will be dispersed in beautiful colors and sparkles.

 

A larger table also makes the diamond look bigger, the carat weight being equal. If you consider the size as an important factor, then choose an oval-cut diamond with a larger table.

 

 

The depth

The depth of the diamond is the distance between the table and the culet (the sharp-pointed end of a diamond.) It is measured by dividing the width of the table against the height of the diamond and given as a percentage. A smaller percentage means that the diamond will appear larger when viewed from above.

 

The girdle

The girdle is the edge around the diamond where the crown meets the pavilion. It can be faceted, bruted, or polished. A faceted girdle has patterns around the diamond. A bruted girdle is rough. The polished girdle is smooth and well cut. This, however, does not affect the appearance of the diamond when viewed from the top.

 

In fact, the size of the girdle only affects the depth of the diamond which means it doesn’t affect how large the diamond appears from the top. The only thing it affects is the carat weight.

 

The size of the girdle is determined by the IGS standards and ranges from extremely thin to extremely thick. A thick girdle increases the carat weight of the diamond. It does not affect the width of the diamond. However, a thick girdle makes the diamond stronger, unlike an extremely thin girdle which is susceptible to chipping when setting in the ring.

 

Culet

The culet is the sharp-pointed end of the diamond. Depending on the size, the culet can make the diamond less brilliant. A large culet that is flat and sits parallel to the table allows more light to pass through without getting reflected out. This may cause the diamond to have a dead area in the middle and reduce its brilliance.

 

Length to width ratio

The length to width ratio of an oval-cut diamond determines how oval the diamond is. This is arrived at by dividing the length of the diamond with its width. A perfectly round or square diamond will have a ratio of 1. The larger the ratio, the more elongated the diamond will appear. The ideal L/W ratio of the oval-cut diamond is between 1.3 and 1.34 or 1.51 and 1.55.

 

The following table will guide you.

ExcellentVery goodGoodFairPoor
Table %53-6356-57.9

Or

64-65

51

Or

66-68

50

Or

69-70

<50
Depth %58 – 6256 – 57.9

or

62.1 – 66

53 – 55.9

or

66.1 – 71

50 – 52.9

or

71.1 – 74

< 50

or

> 74

GirdleVery Thin – Slightly Thick

 

Very Thin

to

Thick

Very Thin

to

Very Thick

Ex. Thin

to

Ex. Thick

CuletNone

 

 

Very SmallSmallMedium> Medium
L/W ratio1.35 – 1.501.30 – 1.34

or

1.51 – 1.55

1.25 – 1.29

or

1.56 – 1.60

1.20 – 1.24

or

1.61 – 1.65

> 1.20

or

< 1.65

 

 

The Color

The color of a diamond is highly subjective. It depends on the buyer’s tastes and preferences. Diamond’s color is graded from D to H with D-F being the cool fluorescent color and G-H being the warm colors. However, most buyers seem to prefer the D-F color range driving the prices for this color range high. However, the actual differences are hard to perceive an incentive for the color grading would be almost non-existence if the color was not a major factor.

 

The impact of color on the quality of the diamond is not linear. It depends on the carat weight of the diamond. The lighter a diamond is, the less significant its color is. For example, an oval cut 2 carat diamond with a color grade of G will be considered good quality whereas a 0.5 carat diamond with the same color grade will be rated excellent.

 

The Bow-tie effect

Almost all major fancy-cut diamonds including heart, marquise, pear, and oval are subject to this phenomenon. The bow-tie effect is a dark inclusion at the center of the diamond that resembles a man’s bowtie. It is brought about when light is blocked from certain angles from entering the diamond. This leads to some angles having no light to reflect out causing this dark region that resembles a bow-tie.

 

The bow tie effect is primarily affected by the cut. A large bow tie indicates that the diamond is poorly cut. This is often the case because cutters are constrained by the need to maximize profitability. A cutter would rather avoid over-polishing the diamond in order to maximize the carat weight.

 

However, the bowtie effect can be used sometimes to add some sexiness to the diamond’s appeal. What should be avoided is a large prominent bow-tie at the middle of the diamond.

 

The carat

The main unit of measurement of the diamond’s weight is the carat which is an equivalent of 0.2 grams and is subdivided into 100 units. Unlike the other aspects of a diamond, the carat is the most objective measure. It does not rely on observation.

 

That said, the carat only measures the weight. It does not measure the brilliance, the cut, the color or other aspects. So it should be approached with a caveat. Sometimes the diamond may weigh more but the quality of the cut is poor. In fact, the majority of the low priced diamonds with large carats have poor cut grade.

 

If you compare two diamonds of the same carat weight, the cut grade becomes the most important measure of quality and value for your money. However, large diamonds are rarer and larger carat weight will most likely be higher priced compared to a smaller one. The carat weight becomes important depending on the jewelry you plan on using the diamond.

Tips on buying an oval-cut diamond

Tips on buying an oval-cut diamond

  1. Size

Understandably, most people check the size of the diamond before other qualities. This is to ensure they get the biggest bang for their bucks. However, size doesn’t translate to quality diamond. A large diamond may have a poor cut and color grade and may not be as brilliant as a small one.

 

That said, oval cut diamonds offer a large surface area when viewed from the top. This is because the elongated feature of the oval makes the diamond appear bigger, unlike a round-cut diamond.

 

Therefore, if you want a diamond with a small carat weight but with a larger surface area, the oval-cut fits the bill.

 

  1. Dealer

This cannot be stressed enough. You’d rather buy your diamonds from a trusted dealer than go to some local jewelry that may not have the quality you need. In a bid to maximize profits, dealers may overprice some diamonds or sell low-quality diamonds at the expense of the buyer’s naivety about diamonds. If you’re unsure about the quality of diamonds, take some time to find a reliable source where you can be directed to the best dealer in your region.

 

  1. Carat weight

As discussed above, it measures how heavy the diamond is. Most dealers use the carat weight as the main identifying feature of the diamond. Often, you’ll see diamonds labeled as “0.5 carat oval-cut diamond, 2 carat diamond.” That’s not enough. When buying your diamond, after checking the carat weight, your next stop should be checking the cut grade, color grade, bow-tie effect and other aspects of the diamond. You’d be safer buying a low-carat diamond with excellent cut grade than a large diamond that is poorly cut.

 

  1. Fluorescence

The beauty of the diamond is in its brilliance. A diamond’s fluorescence is the ability to produce a bluish light when placed under ultra-violet light. Fluorescent diamonds with larger carat weight are desirable as they produce more brilliance and shiny light, unlike less fluorescent diamonds.

 

That said, ensure that the fluorescence is not extreme as it reduces the quality of the diamond. Keep in mind that it can be hard to detect fluorescence in daylight, so let your dealer test that for you. However, the fluorescence of a diamond is factored in its color grade. A color grade of D-F has more fluorescence than G-H.

 

  1. Type of jewelry

You will most likely be purchasing your oval-cut diamond on a piece of jewelry be it a necklace, ring, earring, bracelet, etc. This highly determines the kind of diamond you should buy. For instance, a more elongated oval-cut diamond is desirable for rings as it makes the finger look longer and fits within the finger perfectly. A necklace will most probably look good with a diamond with a large table to give it a larger surface area. Earrings do not need heavy diamonds or else they’ll become uncomfortable. Other cut grade factors play a role in this as well.

Why buy an oval cut diamond

Why buy an oval-cut diamond?

Oval cut diamonds offer some uniqueness to your jewelry. They’re not your typical round-cut diamonds. Here are several reasons why you should choose an oval-cut diamond over other types of cut shapes.

 

  • They’re cheaper

Cheap is relative. However, when compared to round-cut diamonds, oval cut diamonds are cheaper. This is because they take less work to be cut as the cutter has more allowance for shaping. Therefore, less weight is lost in the process. Furthermore, the shape of the oval cut allows it to look bigger yet priced at a lower price.

 

  • They appear bigger

Carat weight being constant, the oval cut diamond appears to be bigger than a round-cut diamond due to its shape. The oval gives the illusion of a larger surface area making the diamond to appear bigger. If you’re looking a large diamond don’t want to break the bank, go for this shape.

 

  • They’re unique

The oval-cut diamond stands out. It’s not round. It’s not square. It’s unique. Wear this diamond in any setting and it sure will become the center of attraction. Oval diamonds are also better reflectors of light and their brilliance is much more than other shapes. This is enhanced even more by the large surface area they portray. Make it a point to buy your oval-cut diamond if love standing out.

 

  • Enhance your finger length

Long fingers are a desirable trait in human beings for both men and women. An oval cut diamond ring has the ability to give the illusion of a long finger when worn upright. This is because of their elongated shape that aligns with the length of the finger. A round-cut diamond diminishes this illusion. The more oval the diamond is, the longer the finger will appear. Consider buying an oval-cut diamond when you feel your fingers are not long enough or want to have the illusion of long fingers.

 

  • The bow-tie effect

Most people would consider this as a defect. But when the oval-cut diamond has a subtle bow-tie effect, it in fact enhances the appearance of the diamond. It suddenly becomes mysterious to look at since most people are used to the complete brilliance of the diamond.

 

When viewed from afar, the bow-tie gives an added sexy appeal to the jewelry and makes it stand out. The pattern created by the bow-tie may be considered a design that’s added to the diamond especially since most people are not familiar with diamond’s features.

 

However, it should be subtle and a large bow-tie effect is a no-go zone. You don’t want to appear like you’re wearing a hollow or darkened diamond with no sparkle or brilliance. It also saves you some extra bucks as the bow-tie effect is considered undesirable by most jewelry experts. However, this is subject to your preference.