Marquise Cut Diamonds

Marquise Cut Diamond

Introduction

The Marquise cut diamond resembles a football, or the eye, or a boat in shape. It’s an elongated diamond with two sharp points on each side of the girdle. It is believed that this shape first came into being when King Louis XV (1710-1774) of France ordered a jeweler to make a diamond that looked like the shape of his fiance’s lips. With time, other jewelers improved on its cut grade making it one of the major cut shapes of the diamond.

 

The Marquise cut diamond is sometimes referred to as a Navette which in French means “boat-like.” As with most diamonds, the Marquise cut diamond has 58 facets with an elliptical shape and is mostly used on rings owing to its ability to enhance the length of the finger. The elongated shape also fits perfectly on a finger.

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Although the Marquise cut diamond is not as popular as the princess and round cut diamonds, this shape boasts of its unique appearance that only strong jewelry enthusiasts can appreciate. Care should be taken to ensure that the sharp-pointed ends which are susceptible to chipping are well protected. In fact, the V-tip prongs are considered to be the safest and most secure prongs to use to hold the diamond.

 

Summary

The cut grade of the marquise cut diamond is determined by either:

  1. The table – it’s the topmost flat surface of a diamond. The length of the table divided by the diameter of the girdle. An excellent marquise cut diamond has a table ratio of 53-63%.

 

  1. The girdle – Outer most edge of the diamond that gives it its shape. It can either be thin, slightly thin, thick, or extremely thick. An extremely thin girdle makes the diamond susceptible to chipping. The girdle can be polished, bruited or faceted.

 

  1. The depth – The depth is the height of the diamond from top to bottom. The depth is divided by the width of the diamond’s girdle plane. A marquise cut diamond with a small depth percentage is preferred as it increases the size of the diamond when viewed from the top.

 

  1. The Culet – The furthest point at the bottom of a diamond. It may be pointed or faceted. A pointed culet is preferred as less light escapes maximizing the brilliance of the diamond.

 

The cut grade

The cut grade of a diamond is considered to be the best way of determining its quality. The cut grade basically means how the diamond has been shaped taking into consideration the best measurements needed to achieve the most brilliance and most appealing look for a diamond.

 

Each cut diamond has its own cut measurements that must be adhered to by a jeweler when cutting the diamond. The most widely used and most trusted source of these measurements is the Gemotology Institute of America. They do laboratory experiments and offer methods of measuring the quality of a diamond. This allows the quality of a diamond to be evaluated from an objective standpoint rather than a subjective one. Because let’s face it, beauty is in the eyes of the beholder, and if everyone was let to determine which diamond is beautiful, then we’d all have our own definition.

 

Several factors are considered when evaluating the quality of a diamond. These factors determine how beautiful and appealing the diamond will be. When well cut, the Marquise cut diamond will exemplify elegance and brilliance to the maximum. Here are the five factors to be considered when determining the cut grade.

  1. Table
  2. Girdle
  3. Depth
  4. Culet
  5. Length/Width ratio

 

Table

The table is the uppermost flat surface of a diamond. To determine the cut grade of a diamond using the table, the length of the table is measured and divided with the width of the diamond (which is from one edge of the diamond along the girdle to the other side). Generally, a marquise cut diamond tends to have a narrow table, unlike a round-cut diamond. The ratio is therefore determined by dividing the most elongated length of the table by the width.

 

For excellent marquise cut diamonds, this ratio of the table’s length to the width is usually between 53% and 63%. Generally, this is the best ratio that maximizes on the size of the surface area as well as the optimal length relative to the height of the diamond.

 

Since the table’s length is indirectly proportional to the height of the diamond’s crown, a marquise cut diamond with a large table generally tends to be shorter in height. The good thing about a shorter diamond is the reduction in carat weight and increased surface area. This is important for visual perception as it portrays the diamond as being large. Furthermore, the depth may not be visible to the eye while the diamond is set on a ring.

 

However, caution should be taken to avoid selecting diamonds with very large tables as this may increase the bow-tie effect and reduce the brilliance of the diamond. A table ratio of more than 70% and less than 50% is considered to be of poor quality.

 

The Girdle

The girdle is the outermost edge of the diamond where the table and the crown meet. The girdle is considered important when evaluating the cut grade of a diamond as it affects the weight of the diamond. Also, when extremely minimized, the girdle becomes susceptible to chipping reducing the quality of a diamond.

 

Generally, the girdle may be rough, polished, or faceted. A rough girdle is one which has not been polished. This should not be something to worry about since once the diamond is set on a ring, the girdle is usually hidden by the prongs. However, a polished girdle comes in handy when the diamond is exposed. A faceted girdle has facets around it increasing the brilliance of a diamond. Most diamonds, including the marquise cut diamond, are made with the faceted girdle.

 

The GIA grades the girdle from extremely thin to extremely thick. Both of those extremes should be avoided since an extremely thin girdle will be susceptible to chipping while an extremely thick girdle will add unnecessary weight to the diamond which might increase its price.

 

The depth

The depth of the diamond is its height from the topmost part on the table down to the culet. The cut grade of the marquise cut is determined by measuring that height and divided by the width of the diamond, or the diameter of the girdle. In most cases, these measurements are millimeters and the ratio is expressed as a percentage.

 

The best depth ratio for the marquise cut diamond is considered to be 58% and 62%. Anything below 50% and anything above 70% is considered poor quality by the Gemotology Institute of America.

 

The depth of the diamond also determines how large or small it appears when viewed from the top. Generally, a short depth in a marquise cut diamond increases the surface area of the diamond when viewed from the top. However, caution should be taken to avoid an overly shallow diamond as this may limit its brilliance. An overly tall diamond may look more brilliance but will be unnecessarily heavier and cost more. So be careful when checking the depth of the diamond to get the most optimal appearance.

 

Culet

The culet is the sharp point located on the furthest end of the diamond. The culet can make or break a diamond’s brilliance. The GIA classifies the culet from none, small, medium, and large. By none, it means that the culet is almost nonexistent and only a sharp point is located there. A medium or large culet is usually a small flat surface. Due to this, the light may pass throughout of the diamond reducing its brilliance. This may also cause an inclusion on the diamond or a dark area.

 

That notwithstanding, most diamonds don’t have a large culet and its effect on the cut grade of the diamond is therefore minimized. However, to refine your selection, ensure that the culet is almost non-existent for the most brilliant Marquise cut diamond.

 

Length/width ratio

The length/width of a diamond is used to determine how perfectly round or oval the shape is. As for Marquise cut diamonds, it’s used to determine how elongated the diamond is. Basically, the longest side length is divided by the shortest side measurement. For round cut diamonds, this ratio is generally 1.00 with small variations. A perfectly oval diamond has an L/W ratio of about 1.5.

 

Depending on your preferences, the best elongated L/W ratio for the marquise cut diamond is considered to be 1.85 to 2.00. Less than 1.55 or more than 2.45 is considered a poor cut grade for the marquise cut diamond.

 

Just by its shape itself, the Marquise cut diamond is already elongated and would fit in most rings. However, consider the 1.85 ratios to be the best shape for Marquise.

 

ExcellentVery goodGoodFairPoor
Table %53-6356-57.9

Or

64-65

51

Or

66-68

50

Or

69-70

<50
Depth %58 – 6256 – 57.9

or

62.1 – 66

53 – 55.9

or

66.1 – 71

50 – 52.9

or

71.1 – 74

< 50

or

> 74

GirdleVery Thin – Slightly Thick

 

Very Thin

to

Thick

Very Thin

to

Very Thick

Ex. Thin

to

Ex. Thick

CuletNone

 

 

Very SmallSmallMedium> Medium
L/W ratio1.85 – 2.001.75 – 1.84

or

2.01 – 2.15

1.65 – 1.74

or

2.16 – 2.30

1.55 – 1.64

or

2.31 – 2.45

> 1.55

or

< 2.45

 

 

The Color

Evaluating the quality of the diamond based on color is highly subjective. This is because it depends entirely on the preferences of the buyers. Keep in mind that most buyers prefer the ever-cool colors of the diamonds (D-G) than the warm ones (J-M) because they perceive it to be more brilliant.

 

However, with the Marquise cut diamond, the warm colors make for a better look and feel like the shape of the diamond may limit its brilliance especially due to the bow-tie effect. Also, the sharp ends of a marquise cut may appear slightly darker.

 

The Bow-tie effect

The bow-tie effect is a dark inclusion at the center of the diamond that resembles a man’s bowtie. It is brought about when light is blocked from certain angles from entering the diamond. This leads to some angles having no light to reflect out causing this dark region that resembles a bow-tie. This phenomenon is common with the Marquise, oval, pear, and heart cut diamonds.

 

The bow-tie effect is primarily affected by the cut. A large bow tie indicates that the diamond is poorly cut. This is often the case because cutters are constrained by the need to maximize profitability. A cutter would rather avoid over-polishing the diamond in order to maximize the carat weight.

 

However, the bowtie effect can be used sometimes to add some sexiness to the diamond’s appeal. What should be avoided is a large prominent bow-tie at the middle of the diamond.

 

 

The Carat Weight

The main unit of measurement of the diamond’s weight is the carat which is an equivalent of 0.2 grams and is subdivided into 100 units. Unlike the other aspects of a diamond, the carat is the most objective measure. It does not rely on observation.

 

That said, the carat only measures the weight. It does not measure the brilliance, the cut, the color or other aspects. So it should be approached with a caveat. Sometimes the diamond may weigh more but the quality of the cut is poor. In fact, the majority of the low priced diamonds with large carats have poor cut grade.

 

Marquise cut diamonds generally tend to appear larger than they really are compared to round cut diamonds of the same carat. This is because of the large surface area on the table and the shorter depth of the crown.

 

If you compare two diamonds of the same carat weight, the cut grade becomes the most important measure of quality and value for your money. However, large diamonds are rarer and larger carat weight will most likely be highly-priced compared to a smaller one. The carat weight becomes important depending on the jewelry you plan on using the diamond on.

 

Tips to consider when buying a Marquise cut diamond

 

  1. Size of the table

The size of the table plays an important role in determining the carat weight as well as the surface area visible from the top. A large table may maximize the surface area but will render the diamond less brilliant. According to the GIA, the most optimal depth/width ratio is between 52% and 68%.

 

  1. Carat weight

The carat weight is used as an important adjective when quoting the value of a diamond by most jewelry sellers. However, it should be approached with a caveat since a large carat does not necessarily mean that the cut grade of the diamond is exemplary. However, if you’re in the market for a large diamond, consider this as your number one determinant but make sure to check on other cut grade qualities to maximize the quality of the diamond.

 

  1. Price

The best quality diamonds are fairly priced. An overpriced diamond may be just that. Overpriced. A diamond with poor cut grade quality will most likely be sold at a lower price. Before making a purchase, make sure you window-shop other jewelry stores to get a picture of what the average price of the marquise cut diamond you’re looking for is. The idea here is to make sure you’re not knocked off or duped into buying a low-quality diamond.

 

  1. Clarity

Before making a purchase of any type of diamond, ensure that it has the best clarity possible. For instance, the marquise cut diamonds may have a dark inclusion on the pointed ends of the elongated shape. It is also subject to the bow-tie effect. Make sure you closely evaluate this.

 

The clarity of the diamond can only be established through ultra-violet rays. When the diamond is placed under UV rays, it emits a blue color. Have the jeweler test this for you.

 

  1. Symmetry

The importance of symmetry on a Marquise cut diamond cannot be overstated. Both sides of the marquise should mirror each other. Failure to do this and the diamond may look and feel off. Its brilliance will also be reduced as the facets will not be aligned perfectly allowing light to escape through.

 

  1. Color

Unlike other diamonds, most marquise cut diamond buyers prefer the warmer colors over the colorless diamonds. This is something to do with their antique feel as the Marquise diamond gives off the elegance of royalty.

 

  1. Slenderizing the finger

The marquise cut diamond is usually used on rings as it’s appealing when worn on the finger and makes the finger appear longer. The shape also fits perfectly along the finger and is appealing to look at.